Six watch brands that stand out, from Lange to Breguet

F.P.Journe has a following among collectors like Mark Zuckerberg. Interest is rising in the brand's harder-to-find designs. "There are certain F.P.Journes that, maybe three years ago, were selling between $30,000 and $50,000," Walker said. "They're now selling between $150,000 to $200,000." Production is limited. If you find one, you signal serious collector status. "Wearing a certain Journe is like what wearing a Nautilus [used to be]," he added. Walker recommends the Élégante, which can sell for about $125,000, or the Chronomètre Optimum, which can cost more than $500,000.

Daniel Roth, founded in 1988, halted production in 2015 and was revived in 2023. Walker recommends the Tourbillion Platinum and the Extra Plat. The latter is listed on Bezel for more than $73,000. The former can cost over $200,000 on the secondhand market.

Gérald Genta, known as the "Picasso of watches" for inventing the luxury sports watch, and Breguet, the "godfather of watchmaking" founded in 1775, round out the list. Walker said Genta's vintage watches make wearers stand out. The $15,000 Donald Duck watch is one option. For Breguet, he recommends the Tradition 7057 at $36,185 and the vintage Classique Perpetual Calendar at $49,325.

The prices make clear this is not a list for casual buyers. These are statement pieces built for collectors who already own the usual suspects and want something their peers do not have on the wrist.