
Pandora pivots from silver to platinum plating, locking in lower metal costs. The holiday season will decide if shoppers accept the switch, with the U.S. as the key market.
Pandora (PNDORA) told investors it will keep replacing silver in its jewelry, even though the metal's price has dropped sharply from its record. That surprised some market watchers. When a material gets cheaper, most companies take the cost savings and move on. Pandora is doing the opposite.
CEO Berta de Pablos-Barbier wants to stop letting one metal decide how the business performs. Silver made up the bulk of Pandora's products, and wild price swings kept dragging its results and its share price around. So her management team is building a plan that holds up whether silver rises or falls.
The plan, paired with a strong second-quarter report, pushed the stock sharply higher this week. The real test comes during the holiday season. If shoppers do not warm to the new platinum-plated pieces, Pandora could be stuck with unsold inventory.
The mechanism: platinum plating and price locks
Silver used to be the metal that determined the results of a Pandora quarter. It sat in most products, so every price spike affected profit margins. That became a problem. Silver climbed past $120 an ounce in January before dropping back toward $65, CNBC reported. Pandora's stock moved with it.
de Pablos-Barbier told Reuters the company has to separate its performance and share value from the commodity, adding that Pandora is a jewelry brand, not a silver trader.
The fix is platinum plating. Pandora will move at least 50% of its relevant silver assortment to platinum-plated designs by 2027, and cut silver's share of its lineup toward 20% over time. Platinum costs far more per ounce than silver, Pandora uses only a thin plated layer, which keeps the finished product affordable.
Pandora launched platinum-plated bracelets in stores across Northern Europe and online, with a wider global launch planned for the second half of 2026, National Jeweler reported.
The company did not stop at the product switch. It also locked in the price on nearly all of its remaining 2027 silver needs. Pandora has now secured contracts covering 90% to 100% of its 2027 silver supply at about $65 an ounce, Investing.com noted. Its prior planning assumed roughly $82 an ounce. That lower locked-in price adds about 200 basis points to Pandora's earlier 2027 margin assumptions.
The earnings beat and what it rests on
The material plan landed alongside a second-quarter report that beat expectations. Pandora posted 3% organic growth and raised its full-year outlook, according to a press release. Net income reached DKK 875 million, well above the DKK 640 million analysts expected, Newsquawk reported.
Management now expects 0% to 3% organic growth for 2026, up from the prior range of -1% to 2%. It also lifted its full-year EBIT margin target to a range of 22% to 23%, from 21% to 22%.
The higher margin target is not purely operational. Pandora said it reflects a one-time gain from a U.S. tariff refund, according to a press release. Strip that out, the underlying beat was closer to 3%, Investing.com reported.
Capital returns shifted too. Pandora raised its ordinary dividend by 10% to DKK 22 per share, Yahoo Finance reported. At the same time, it paused its share buyback program. The company said it will resume buybacks once the platinum transition has progressed further.
The risk: holiday demand and shelf life
The bigger question is whether shoppers accept platinum-plated pieces over the sterling silver they know. In a July study of 23,000 shoppers, 78% recognized platinum as a precious metal, compared with 69% for sterling silver. Pandora says platinum-plated pieces will cost about the same as its silver jewelry.
The U.S. accounts for about a third of Pandora's sales, and consumer sentiment there is weak, de Pablos-Barbier told CNBC. If shoppers do not warm to the new platinum-plated pieces during the holiday season, Pandora could be stuck with unsold inventory. It would likely need to cut prices to move that stock, and that would eat into profit.
Pandora trades at about 14 times forward earnings, according to Yahoo Finance, against modest single-digit growth. The stock carries a Neutral analyst consensus, Investing.com reported.
The central tension is timing. Pandora is pivoting away from silver at a moment when silver is cheap. That protects near-term margins. The platinum transition has a clear shelf life risk: the holiday quarter is the real test.
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